Commis

Oakland · Modern · Fancy

Best Dish: the egg, caviar and alliums, bread with chicken butter, onion financier, blood orange sidecar

The full menu at Commis is a magical ride through Chef Syhabout’s repertoire that bridges the best of French cooking and Asian flavors. If Chef’s Table is any indication, most multi-starred chefs are gregarious and put on huge displays of personality. Chef Syhabout’s boldness comes across in his food only. The atmosphere at Commis is reserved but thoughtful, elegant but nondescript. Nothing is showy. Chef disappears into the background, as does everything else once the food arrives. Everything hits. Ten-course dining is not ever really accessible, but Commis also offers a shorter pre-fixe bar menu at a reasonable price point, and you can order some of the most famous dishes a-la-carte with a drink.